There are some occasions when you need an alternative to a fountain pen. I’ve tried various types over the years. Though I’m not obsessed about it I really don’t like ballpoints. I could live with the angle, reluctantly, but not the pressure. There are so many options available but in the end I settled on the Pilot G-2 pen.
It has a lot going for it. It’s not expensive but it’s not a throwaway pen. Refills – also inexpensive – are available and it’s surely better to throw away a refill rather than a whole pen. It’s durable; I’ve been using the same one for a decade. The clicky mechanism is light and reliable and the design is unostentatious and comfortable. The transparent barrel allows you to check the level of the refill which lasts well and the pen has a strong plastic clip.
In use it requires just as light a touch as a fountain pen. The angle at which you hold it tends toward the vertical but not as rigidly as a ballpoint. Perhaps if I had to write pages with it I would find faults with it but I have no reason to do so. I use it for export labels and the forms of officialdom. Taking cost against practicality and usefulness I think the G-2 is a winner!
(Doesn’t that sound like one of those FPN reviews?)
I take great pleasure in writing and I do so by choice whenever I can. We all have to use computers and phones these days and many words, sentences and paragraphs are hammered out on the keyboard as this article is, but it wasn’t created here. It was drafted in a hardcover spiral-back notebook using a Jinhao fountain pen with Baystate Blue ink. The blank, faintly blue sheets of my notebook invite creativity in a way a computer program never does for me. For some people it might be about pace, giving time to think as the pen glides over the paper. It isn’t that for me. I write very fast but perhaps it works so well because it is the medium I have used since childhood.
Keyboard use only became universal with the spread of the PC. Before that it was a rather specialist skill though there were many “hunt and peck” amateurs. Now the laser-printed page is ubiquitous and dominant. Admittedly it has the benefit of clarity whereas not everyone’s handwriting is always easy to read. Even in a personal letter, though, printing is coldly official-looking to one of my generation. The hand-written letters that arrive in the post warm the heart in their own special way. There’s only one aspect of the word-processor that is superior to handwriting: perhaps one day someone will invent a fountain pen with a spell-checker!
This Blackbird 5245 was made at a time when the smaller Swans and these Blackbirds looked very like each other at first glance. The shiny, plain black ends on the Blackbird are a clue. Blackbird quality has always been high for what is seen as a second-string brand. I would say that in terms of quality there is no difference between Swans and Blackbirds. The only real difference is that Blackbird nibs are thinner – and shorter on some models though not this one.
I saw this pen on offer in eBay. It was low priced because the nib was quite severely crumpled. I decided that it was worth buying because the rest of the pen was very good and the nib was special, an oblique stub. You don’t get many of those in Blackbirds. Though there was a chance that the damage to the nib would be too great for me to repair I took a chance on it.
When the pen arrived I was very glad that the barrel and cap were as good as advertised but I didn’t hold out much hope for the nib. It had been dropped on a hard surface, creating a severe crease below the breather hole. The tips of the tines pointed in different directions. On the good side the nib was intact with no cracks.
I got down to work with my set of nib tools. These allow pressure to be exerted both on the concave and convex aspects of the nib. It took quite a while – more than an hour – but as I managed to return the body of the nib to something approaching its original shape the points of the tines drew together. Though the crease remains in a much reduced state it doesn’t affect how the nib writes. It has been restored to a very pleasant oblique stub with a decent amount of flexibility.
It’s likely that the nib will require some finger adjustment at the write-testing stage but I’m pleased with how it has turned out.
Almost invariably my pens remain in my work area, either in a decorative Japanese bowl or in a lovely wooden pen rest on my desk (thank you, James). I also have a wooden pencil box which contains the Lamy broad stub I use for addressing envelopes and my dip pens. At the moment I have seven pens inked, far more than sense would dictate. A pen new to me will arrive and I want to see how it writes, or I take a notion for one ink or another, so the inked pens multiply.
As I don’t go anywhere very much these days I never have a pen clipped to my pocket. I have a handsome pen wrap which lies unused in a drawer. My husband happens to be away from home quite a lot. He has a pen wrap decorated with Japanese dragons which holds six pens comfortably. As he writes a lot they are changed quite often. We share our pens. There’s no ‘mine and thine’ in our fountain pens.
You’ll doubtless be aware of the debate as to whether pens should be stored nib up or nib down. I’m of the nib down school and it has never caused a problem for me. I would guess – though I’ve never tried it – that pens stored with the nib up might be hard starters, with the ink flowing back away from the nib and feed.
With so many pens inked there may be one that is neglected and will have developed a dry nib when called upon. I know which these are and try to ensure they are not neglected. Most, I am pleased to say, remain ready to write despite being left unused for a long time. Japanese pens are very good in this regard, I find. In distant former days I might sport a chatelaine chain with my trusty fountain pen ready to write. I have never worn a watch chain with a ringtop attached but the idea does appeal. Both these uses of pens were attractive to busy people, probably of a more wealthy station of life than I would have been likely to find myself. In the early days of the twentieth century I would have been likely to be scratching away with my eyedropper filler in some clerical or secretarial capacity rather than bossing underlings or domestic servants around.
Pens and inks together are another aspect of how I use them. Transparent pens (which are emphatically not demonstrators) don’t like certain inks, especially red. To avoid stained barrels and sections I’m careful about which inks I use. Then we are advised that mixing any other ink with even the least fraction of Noodler’s Baystate Blue will lead to an unimaginably dreadful outcome so I keep that ink in one pen alone. Beyond those few careful restrictions all inks go in all pens. I’ve found that very few pens misbehave and if one should shorten the life of a sac I can always fit another. The final thing I will say about how I use my pens is with unfailing delight.
Many thanks to those of you who replied to my last blog post. On consideration I think I’ll keep the ultrasonic cleaner I have. My main use for it – and that very seldom – is with the antioxidant. I occasionally get an accommodation clip in a poor state which can be improved with that mixture. So far as cleaning is concerned I think I can do better with cotton buds and small brushes.
Your comments were invaluable, not only for me but also for other readers as is made clear by one of the responses. I have always thought that the comments were at least as useful as the blog posts themselves, an example being Raymond Wiker’s comment on the post about the Cross pen, a brand about which I know very little. Indeed, I am no expert on any one brand though I have some knowledge of Mabie Todd. I am very fortunate that there are many among my readers who generously share their great knowledge and expertise here.
Writing about my tools the other day led me to think about my ultrasonic cleaner. I bought it about ten years ago, a mid-range model made by JPL. From the very first it was unimpressive. In fact most of the time it didn’t seem to make any difference. I could do better with cotton buds and brushes. It has two practical uses: it sits in my work area filled with water and I flush sections in it – obviously a bowl of water would work equally well! And secondly I use it with an anti-oxidant solution but that would work just as well shaken up in a jar.
The only other ultrasonic cleaners I’m familiar with are the big ones for cleaning carburettors and they are very different. Greasy, clogged carburettors come out of them gleaming.
Those of you who use ultrasonic cleaners, do they do a good job? Are they indispensable in your work routine? Should I get a different one or should I forget about ultrasonic cleaners?
When I first got an old pen working I was pretty pleased with myself and considered that pen restoration was a straightforward business that wouldn’t require much in the way of tools. Brightening one up could probably be done with whatever I already had in the house. I’m not often wrong but when I’m wrong I get it really wrong! I now have an entire room devoted to the repair and restoration of writing instruments.
All those years ago I didn’t (or thought I didn’t) even need section pliers. My hands were stronger then and I thought such mechanical aids were for wimps. It was a Swan SF130 that made me reconsider. No amount of heating and persuading would divorce that section from its beloved barrel. I gave in and ordered section pliers which did the job with consummate ease.
Over the years I tried every polish recommended on the pen discussion boards. Several sit yet sad and neglected on a shelf. When serious restoration work requires it I use the three-part Novus polish. Otherwise a Sunshine cloth does a fine job without unnecessarily abrading the material.
Pliers love to proliferate. I have several sizes of needle-nose pliers, the clever parallel pliers and various other less easy to label types. Medicine and dentistry provide tools useful for fountain pen repair: small, slender forceps assist work in the interior of the cap or barrel. Dental scrapers are good for removing sacs that seem welded to the interior of the barrel. The sorts of headlights that surgeons use help to illuminate the work. Scalpels have a thousand uses.
When I began I thought that a pocket knife was just about all that I would need. I was very wrong, of course, but my trusty old pocket knife is still used to scrape the remains of the sac off every sac-filler’s section. I have a shelf in a cupboard filled with polishing cloths, cotton buds, pipe-cleaners and all the other necessaries for ensuring pens are clean inside and out. The business of abrasion is covered by Micromesh, steel wool and when something more aggressive is needed, needle files.
I never imagined for a moment that I would require electro-mechanical help to fix pens but my heat gun is constantly required and I have a handy little electric drill that drives a host of useful attachments. Lighting comes into that category. I have a powerful overhead light and a flexible angle lamp. Magnification helps my failing eyesight: an OptiVisor headset and loupes of various magnifying strengths.
Is that all? Of course it isn’t! The collection of tools. adhesives and consumables is beyond listing. Whenever I think I must be finished something else comes to mind. So I’m going to stop.
Many moons ago my husband and I used to mentally put together the ideal motorbike. If I was to do the same thing with vintage fountain pens it would be something like this:
Starting at the pointy end, I like exposed nibs for two reasons (1) Gold nibs are things of beauty and (2) with a hooded nib I have to check that I’m holding the pen properly every time I use it. There’s a fashion for flexible nibs these days but I don’t subscribe to it. Firm and fine is how I like my nibs though I do occasionally use a medium if it’s a good one and I like stubs, oblique or straight.
I like a section with a good “stop”. Again, this rules hooded nibs out because of their slippery hoods. The barrel (and section) should be comfortably thick. Very thin pens give me pain after a short while. I’m not talking about huge modern pens or even Swan sixes or eights. Swan pens bearing number two, three or four nibs are good
Filling systems are not so important that they become a deal breaker. The note-taker on my desk can be a piston filler. Otherwise I prefer a pen that holds less ink. That rules out eyedropper fillers too though I do admire the early ones. Sac fillers, Leverless, lever or button are ideal for me. There are some inks you’re not supposed to put in sac fillers but I’m in the fortunate position of having replacement sacs to hand – not that I’ve had to replace sacs often.
I prefer a pen with a clip to stop it rolling off the desk. I like threaded caps. I don’t care about colour. Nice patterns don’t make pens write better. You can be sure that the colourful pens I have were chosen because they’re great writers. Not that it matters much but I have a slight preference for black.
My Leverlesses, 0160 and 1060 are all black. My Parkers are almost all black button fillers, the exception being a Lapis Lazuli Duofold Junior and a mixed colour Frankenpen. And an English Duofold Junior that fills by the Aerometric system.
That’s a quick outline of my pen preferences. Other factors will come in too but that’s enough for a discussion. What are your preferences?