It’s true that I have rather fallen to the Dark Side with ink but I’m even more addicted to good paper. By that, for the most part, I mean quality old paper that I find, from the time when everyone wrote with a fountain pen and paper had to be made with that in mind.
The only modern paper I frequently use for correspondence is Clairefontaine Triomphe and I’m not terribly fond of that. It’s good for ink/pen combinations that tend to bleed or feather but it’s white, smooth and bland.
I have a box of Olde Scotland paper, made by Calligraphic Crafts. It’s no longer made. It is parchment style paper, stiff and crinkly. It’s thick, perhaps 120 gsm. The front sheets have woodcuts of Scottish scenes, the continuation sheets are blank. I love it all the more because when it’s finished there is no more.
Almost equally good is a writing wallet of blue textured sheets with envelopes. It is very much older. No show-through or feathering. Again, there is no more.
Goodwriterspens's Blog 
Try the line of Strathmore “Writing”. It’s got a bit of tooth, and is surprisingly bleed-resistant. When we dust off our press (generally at Toronto pen show time), it’s what we use for cards and stationery.
Thanks for the recommendation.
It’s true that vintage-fountain-pen-friendly paper is hard to find. Possibly as a result of FPN intoxication I believed for a while that only Tomoe River paper checked all the boxes, but I have discovered (through trial and error) that there still exists fairly cheap, lightweight (70 g/m2) paper that is not coated too thickly and yet does not feather or bleed. There is a Belgian producer of excellent writing paper (aurora-productions.be, sold in A4 sheets at unbeatable prices) and in French supermarkets the house brands of Système U and of E Leclerc (“Esquisse”) are very good, too. True, these papers are white, not cream coloured, but I’m willing to compromise on that front if the writing experience is pleasant enough.
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Thank you for the recommendations! I have taken a note of those papers. An A4 pad of G Lalo, Vergé de France arrived in the post this morning. I’m looking forward to trying that. It seems very nice.